Method of making shoes



.Jam 29 1924.

A. F. PYM

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Sept`. 23, 1921 a, ieee.

ARTHR F. PYM, 0F LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNB T0 l"UNITED SHOE fui ORPORATION, OF PTERSON, NEW JERSEY, A. CORPORATION 0F N .t SY.

METHOD ormanine Snom.

Application 'Med September 23, 1921. Serial 502,666.

To all whom z't may concern:

' Be it known thatALAARTHUn F. Prin., a subject of the King of England, residmg at Lynn', in the county of Essex and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes,- of which the following descrlption, in connection with the -aceompanylng drawings, is a specification, hkereference charac-ters on the drawings indicating llke parts in the several ligures.

This invention relates to methods of making shoes; particularly to methods ot making turn shoes and to lasts for use 1n the practice of such methods.

n the manufacture of turn shoes it 1s usual to provide a first last havir thereon a sole with its exposed face shoul ered and channeled. An upper turned inside out is applied over the last and. sole and then lasted and sewed to the between substance about with a, good angle or corner inthe lasted upper where it is turned` from the planel the periphery of the sole exceptat the heel portion. The lfirstv last is now removed, the 'shoe turnedright side out and placed upon a second last which may be the same as the first last but preferably is larger, for example, b -a half sizfe,rso that the space inside the s oe previously occupied by the sole is taken up. The free end. portion of the .-sole is now turned upwardly and a combined heel-seat pad and shank stiener inserted beneath the sole and inside the up- .standin mar 'n of the upper and counter about t e hee -seat but outside of the lining which is folded down u on the heel plateV of the last.

The heel-seat asting operation, -which ensues, consists in folding the upstanding margin of the upper and counter down upon the heel-seat ad and securing it there, the end ofthe so e being still bent upwardly away from the heelseat to permit this operation. Since the heelseat pad at this time is unsecured either to the last or' to the sole, it may be moved forwardly orotherwise displaced, in which' event it becomes diicult or impossible to last the shoe of the side of the last into the plane of the heel-seat.

An object of this invention is to provide a last and method of making turn shoes by which displacement of the heel-seat pad prior to or during the heel-seat lasting operating is l revented and by which better heel-seat lastin will result.

, In the practice of the invention, a shoe bottom part, for example a heel pad, 'is located in definite predetermined relation to the heel-seat of a last and is held from movement relatively to the last in the plane of the last bottom, in a manner which separationof the part and last in a direction perpendicular to the lastbottom. lPreferably the part and last are ieldingly locked against such separation. h@ locating and holding means for the pad and last may comprise (zo-'operating projections and holes definitely spaced to hold the part and last in predetermined relation so that the ed face of the pad will substantially coinci e with the edge of the heelfseat.

As herein shown, two pins project above the surface of the last bottom and are resilientl depressible lush with the surface of the {asa-their longitudinal axes being in voutwardly divergent relation to each other to produce a locking e'ect. The heel pad is provided with two holes each of which is spaced from the rear end ofthe pad a distance equalto the distance of the corresponding pin from the end of thelast. The pad is placed in proper position on the last bottom and pressed down, whereupon, because of the angular relation of thev axes of the pins to each other, the pad is held and relative movement of the last and pad in the plane of the last bottom is prevented. The last is now ready to be inserted as a second last into a shoe which has been lasted upon a irst last and turned in the usual manner. The end of the sole is raised and the upper, counter and linin lasted inwardly upon the heel pad whi being unable to shift in the plane of the -last bottom because of the pins, is held in exact proper relation to the heel-seat and insures the formation of an even andpoper anglvetabout and the overlaid and counter. p l

Vir.; pms pnt no helada.-

tothere rmits my improved last in a turn shoe before turning, the' upper having been sewed to the sole except about the heel-seat;

Fig. 2 .is a view of the lastv with a. heel A pad and stifener located thereon in accordance with this invention and ready to be inserted in ashoe after it is turned;

Fig. 3 is a side view of the shoe and last,

v partly in section, after the step of lasting the heel-seat has been performe f Fig. 4shows the last and shoe, partly in section, after the step of removing the last vhas been initiated; and

Fig. 5 is a partial plan view of Fig. 2. The last is provided with two depressible `pins 2, 4 which normally project a short distance above the bottom of the last. Each pin is mounted in a cylindrical casing 6 closed at its bottom except for a hole through which the pin 2 freely paes. The pin carries a collar 8 fixed thereto which slides freely in the casing. Between the collar 8 and the bottom of the casing 6` is a spring 10 which normally forces the pin outwardly of the casing until the headed lower end 12 of the pin engages the casing. The

casing is driven into a suitable hole 14 in the last which hole is deep enough to allow the outer end ofthe pin to be depressed flush with the last bottom. before .the opposite end of the pin hits the bottom of the hole. The pin 4 is preferably mounted. exactl similarly to the pin 2 except that the longltudinal axis of the hole 16 in which the pin -4 is mounted is inclined to the longitudinal axis of the hole 14 in which the pm 2 and its casing 6 are held. As shown, the pin 4 is inclined upwardly and forwardl relatively to the fpin 2 and to the last. he pin 4 is also pre erably offset laterally with respect to the longitudinal median plane of the last, as shown in Fig. 5, so that the pin does not interfere with the metal stiener 2O usually attached to or embeddedin the heel pad 22. In` order to locate accurately and secure firmly the pins in the last, it is preferable that the holes for the in casin be made through the metal heel p ate 24 w 'ch is attached to the heel-Seat portion" of the last. The heel plates ma be provided, at the time of their manu acture, with two holes properly located and corresponding substantially 1n size to the diameter of the casing 6, and after attachment of the heel plate to the last the holes in the* plate will serve to locate the holes which are bored in the last to receive the .Casin that is, the heel plate serves as a jig or boring casing holes. In other 'respects the last may be similar to lasts usually employed in the manufacture of turn shoes.

In the practice of the method of the present inventionan up er 25 inside out and a sole 26 are assemble upon a last, lasted and sewed together .in the manner usually practiced in the manufacture of turn shoes, the seam extending from one side of the heelseat about the peripher ofthe shank and forepart to the other side of the heel-seat, leaving the ,heel-seat portion unattached. Since the pins 2 and 4 are depressble they d0 not interfere with the attachment of the sole to the last( whenA used as a first last.

The shoe, after the turn sewing operation, is

shown'in Fig. 1.

The shoe is next removed from the last and turned. .Then either the same last or a similar last one-half size'larger has placed upon ita heel pad and stiiener 22, 20, which has previously been provided with suitable holes spaced and positioned in exact accordance with the positions of the pins at the lane of the heel-seat. The rear hole in the eel pad is placed over the pin 2 and the pad pressed down against the pin 4 which 1s thereby depressed flush with the plane of the heel-seat. By slight manipulation of the pad, if necessa ,the p in 4 is caused to snap u through t e forward hole in the pad, w ereupon the pad, partly by reason of the divergent relation of the axes of the pins, is held upon the last, and, by reason of the accurate'location of the pin holes, is positioned exactly as it should be with relation to the, last and is securely held from longitudinal or lateral movement with respect to the last. Y y

The last and pad are theninserted in the "turned shoe, the free end of the sole turned back, and the heel-seat lasted down upon the pad 22 and secured, for example, by tacks 28 as shown in Fig. 3 which illustrates the shoe after the heel-seat lastin operation. During this operation the pad 1s prevented by the pins from shifting relatively to the heel plate of the last and a square and uni form angle betweenpthe upper and counter and their inturned flange portions is assured. The free end of the sole may now be nailed vdown tothe pad and the inturned flanges of the u vper and counter by the usual heelseat nai inoperation, the shoe being then in the con 'tion shown `in Fig. 4 and ready for the attachment of the heel which may or ma not be attached before the last is remove When the free end of the sole is nailed down to the heel seat it depresses the pins 2, 4 so that they ro'ect only through the thickness of the heel pad 22. This results in substantially unlocking the pad from the last, particularly when the ends of the pinsare .rounded as shown, to permit the last to be easilyrpulled. Morelos ineaaoi over, in removing the last, either before or after the heel is attached, the pad 22 and last at-the rear end are first separated in a direction perpendicular to the heel plate, that is, in the direction of the axis of the pin 2,

which is thus released. As soon as this separation is enough to permit it, the shoe and last are also relatively moved longitudinally; since this compound movement is in the direction of the pin 4, it does not interfere with the last pulling operation.

Having thus described my invention, what l claim as new and desire'to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in the making of shoes which consists in providing a heel pad With o enings in spaced ielation longitudinal y of the shoe, providing, on the heel-seat of a last, locating members arranged to engage the openings in the said pad and to locate the pad on the last in predetermined position in the proper lateral and longitudinal adjustment, placing sald pad on the locating memberson the last, placing the last and pad in a turn shoe, and lasting the upper over the pad' so located.

2. That improvement in lmaking shoes which consists in providing a last With projections located at predetermined different distances from the heel end of the last with their axes in divergent relation, one of said projections being depressible, providing a shoe bottom part with holes corresponding in location to the location of the projections on the last, assembling the bottom part with one of the projections in register with one hole in said part, pressing the shoe bottom part against the depressible projection to cause the same to be depressed and to enter the second hole whereby the part is locked to the last bottom by reason of the divergent relation of the axes of the projections, then inserting a last in the shoe upper, and lasting the upper to the shoe bottom parts.

A3. That improvement in the art of Inaking shoes which consists in providing'fa last and a heel pad, one having in its heel-seat portion a plurality of recesses and the other having on its corresponding portion a plurality of projections to correspond with the recesses, said projections and recesses being equally spaced longitudinally of the shoe and each projection and its corresponding recess being spaced at the same p-redey termined distance from the heel end of the shoe, then assembling the bottom part on the last, the recesses and projections being in co-operative relation to hold the bottom part in predetermined position on the last and to prevent relative longitudinal moveyment of the bottom part and last, then lasting the upper to the bottom part, and completing the shoe in the usual manner.

4. That improvement in making turn shoes which consists in providing a heel pad and stitlener with openings in spaced relation longitudinally of the shoe, providing' on the second last, pad locating members arranged to engage the holes in the pad and to locate the pad on the last in predetermined position in proper lateral adjustment and with its rear end flush with the end of the heel-seat, placing a pad on the locating member, inserting the last in the shoe, lasting the heel-seat, completing the shoe in the usual manner, and removing the last.

5. That improvement in making turn shoes which consists in providing locating members on the rear portion of the bottom of a last arranged with their axes in divergent relation, one at least'of the members being depressible, providing a pad with a plurality of holes,'placing the pad on the last with one of the holes over one of the members, forcing the pad against the other member to cause it to be depressed and its end brought into register with the other hole, allowing the member to rise in the second hole to lock lthe pad on the last in. predetermined relation, inserting the last in the turned shoe, and completing the shoe in the usual manner.

6. That improvement in making turn shoes which consists in providing locating members on the rear portion of a last s aced apart longitudinally of the last an arranged With their axes in divergent relation, one at least of the members beingde ressible, providing a pad with holes space like the locating members, placing the pad on the last With one of the holes .over one of the members, forcing the pad against the other member to cause it to be depressed and its end brought into register witlrthe other hole,'allowing the member to rise in the second hole to lock the pad on the last in predetermined relation, inserting the last in the turned shoe, completing the shoe in the (lll usual manner, and removing the last rst by 4an outward movement to disenga e the rearmember and then by a combine out- Ward and longitudinal movement to free the other member from its hole.

7. That -improvement in making turn shoes which consists in providing a last with a pin located substantially at the center of curvature of the heel end of the last and with a resiliently supported pin located forwardly of the first pin at one side of the longitudinal median line of the rear part of the last bottom and having its axis inclined to the last bottom, yroviding a combined heel ad and sti ener with holes spaced like t e pins, the rear hole being at the same distance from the rear end of the pad as is the rear pin from the end of the last, assembling the pad -upon the lastnvith the rear hole in engagement with the rear pin, pressing down on the pad to cause the second pin to be depressed and brought in line' with the second hole and to (project therein, inserting the last and pa in a turned shoe, lasting the rear portion of the upper to the pad, and removing the last from the shoe first by an outward movement to free the rear pin and then by an outward and longitudinal movement to free the second pin.

8. That improvement in making turn shoes which consists in providing a last with projections located at predetermined different distancesfrom the heel end of the last with their axes in divergent relation, one at least "of said projections being depressible, providing a combined heel pad and stitfener with holes corresponding in location to the location of the projections on the last, assembling the pad with one of the holes inregister with one hole in the pad, pressing the pad against the depressible projection to cause the same to be depressed, causing the projection to enter the second hole whereby the pad is locked to the last bottom by reason of the divergent relation of the axes of the projections, then inserting the last in a turned shoe and lasting the up per and counter to the heel-seat portion of the pad.

9. That improvement in theart of male ing turn shoes which comprises providing a second last with projections located at predetermined diiferent distances from the heel end of the last, providing a combined heel ad and stifener with holes corresponding 1n location to the location 0f the projections, assembling the pad upon the last with the holes in engagement with the projections, inserting the last and pad in a turned shoe and lasting the projecting margin of the upper and counter to the heel portion of the pad, and completing the shoe inthe usual manner.

v"10. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which comprises providing a second last and a combined heel pad and stifener, one having a plurality of recesses Yand the other a plurality of projections to 'completing the shoe in the usual manner.

11. A last having on its heel-seat portion two locating pins arranged with their axes in divergent relation, and spring means for maintaining one of the pins in extended position `and permitting it to be depressed to enable a heel pad having two holes to be positioned on the last with one of the holes over one of the pins and then forced against the depressible pin to cause it .to be depressed and its end brought in register with the other hole, the pin then rising in the second hole to lock the pad to the last in predetermined position.

12. In 'a shoe last, a pin located substantially at the center of curvature of the heel end of the last, and a resiliently supported pin located in the heel-seat forwardly of the first pin at one side of the longitudinal median line of the heel part of the 'last bottom and having its axis inclined to the last bottom.

In testimony whereo I have signedl my name to this specification.

ARTHUR F. PYM. 

